Liquid shampoo can be really hard to make without any undesirable foaming agents or any long sounding ingredient names.
In a liquid shampoo, customers expect to get a lather and foam as that is seen (falsely) as “cleaning the hair. To get a real good foam you are going to have to use a combination of a few different ingredients. Evolve Shine shampoo does give a really good foam and you can see why if you look at the ingredients list.
I have used Evolve Organic Beauty shine shampoo* off and on over the last 3 years. On because it is such a brilliant shampoo for my hair. It is perfect when I do not have time to faff with the dryer and styling products. I just wash, condition and twist up in a knot on the top of my head. When its time to go out, take knot down and “ah voila”, bouncy, shiny, manageable hair.
The problem I found though was I could not use it all the time.
My hair was fine, but my scalp became progressively irritated and flaky the longer I used the shampoo. This soon stopped after about a week of not using it but my major problem became my inner ears. They would start to drive me nuts, so itchy, then they would get weepy and scabby (not nice!). Stop using the Evolve Shampoo* and go back to my fail-safe Odylique Gentle Herb Shampoo* and they would improve but it would take weeks for them to go back to normal. Then I would try using the Evolve shampoo/conditioner combo again and the whole cycle would start again. Now I just do not use it.
This was disappointing, as like I said it is a really good shampoo and it is great for my hair, just not my skin.
Then one day a customer and I were talking about Beauty Kubes* and she was saying what a shame that they used Cocamidopropyl betaine CAPB (Beauty Kubes no longer use CAPB ) as it can be such an irritant and the light dawned.
CAPB is a known irritant of the mucous membrane and delicate areas, (such as inner ears I presume!). This is what made me look into CAPB, write the blog article and from the information gained from that, we decided not to stock any products with CAPB in them. Not just because I found it an irritant, but because it has a potential to be an irritant to others, but mostly because we were concerned about the risk to aquatic life from having CAPB in our waterways (CAPB Blog post here).
So whats in Evolve Organic Beauty Shine Shampoo*?
Sodium Coco-Sulfate, EWG Score 1, A surfactant, Synthetic made detergent. Derived from a combination of all the fatty acids of Coconut. Which will mean it contains some SLS, though it’s molecular structure and the mixture is thought to be less irritating than SLS. Views are out to whether this is indeed a totally safe ingredient, or it is indeed “green-washing” therefore plenty written about this online, but nothing definitive.
Glycerin, (EWG 2) From vegetable origin A humectant that attracts moisture to the hair and retains it, Though it also works the other way. If the air in the environment is drier than the hair then it is possible for the humectant to push the moisture from the hair into the atmosphere Which you ideally do not want it to do, therefore it is normally mixed with ingredients like oils, that the glycerine can pull the moisture from and help your hair to absorb them better. Though not normally an issue in the UK! SDS sheet here
Cocamidopropyl Betaine, (EWG 4) Also known as CAPB. Created by mixing raw coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, creating what is known as an amphoteric surfactant. It creates that thick lather used by shampoos. CAPB is thought by some to be a popular cause for rosacea, eczema, skin irritation, and eye irritation. Noted in the SDS to be
Harmful to aquatic life with long lasting effects. See Blog post here, See SDS sheet here
Decyl Glucoside, EWG Score 1, A mild non-ionic glucose based surfactant, plant-derived, biodegradable and from a 100% vegetable renewable source. Used together with the CAPB to provide the foam. SDS sheet here
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, EWG Score 1, a mild, solubilizing non-ionic surfactant obtained from renewable raw materials: fatty alcohols and glucose from vegetable origin. Works as an emulsifier, which helps oils and water to mix. Also works with the ingredient above to help make a denser foam. SDS sheet here.
Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Seed Protein*, Baobab Oil, penetrates the hair follicle to enrich it with moisture and improving elasticity whilst nourishing the scalp. Similar benefits to argan oil but does not weigh down the hair.
Parfum (NaturalFragrance), as quoted from below from the Evolve website
“Natural Fragrance Blend – natural fragrances are complex compositions of natural aromatic raw materials such as essential oils, isolates, extracts and volatile concentrates. As opposed to a whole essential oil found in a plant, these natural chemicals are physically isolated from natural compounds. On our ingredients list, this is listed as parfum”
I know legally brands have to put Parfum on the label and I usually take it to mean the essential oils already listed but it could be also mean anything that is used as Parfum whether listed or not. I did ask Evolve about what this meant on the Shampoo bottle but never got a reply.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder*, Acts as a great conditioner & makes your hair smooth & shiny. It promotes hair growth, prevents itching on the scalp, reduces dandruff and conditions your hair.
Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Fruit Extract*, Helps to detangle, defrizz , strenghthen and add a shine to hair.
Lauryl Glucoside, EWG Score 1, derived from Coconut. Used as a cleansing agent in shampoo as well as for foaming and as an emulsifier. SDS sheet here
Glyceryl Oleate, EWG score 1, is the ester of glycerin and oleic acid. It is produced from oils that contain high concentrations of oleic acid, such as olive oil, peanut oil, or pecan oil. It is used as an emulsifier (mixes oil and water). Helps hair to be glossy and to enable our hair to be brushed when wet. SDS sheet here
Coco-Glucoside, EWG 1 Comes from coconut and fruit sugars and is completely biodegradable. A common, natural alternative to conventional foaming agents and surfactants. SDS Sheet here
Citric Acid, EWG Score 2, A natural preservative & PH adjuster.
Levulinic Acid, EWG Score 1. A natural plant acid used as a preservative.
Sodium Levulinate, EWG Score 1, Sodium salt of the above
Sodium Phytate, EWG 1, is a plant-based complexing agent, which enables the formation of a fine-bubble foam in shampoos and thus improves the cleaning effect.
Sodium Benzoate, (EWG Score 3) A food grade preservative ( E211)that can be found naturally in foods & seasonings such as including cranberries, cinnamon, prunes and apples. Has been tested extensively for long & short term effects and found not to be a concern in small amounts. Currently found safe by the FDA, to use in concentrations of 0.1%. Its use is allowed in natural/organic cosmetic products.
If eaten in fruit or seasoning in its natural form, Sodium Benzoate would be present in larger doses than what it is used for as a preservative. One concern of Sodium Benzoate is that when combined with Citric Acid or Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) that it can produce Benzene which is highly carcinogenic and may cause genetic mutations. This happens when the solution PH is 3.8 (acidic-Grapefruit juice) or lower. Heat, light and shelf life can affect the rate at which benzene is formed. Shampoo normally has a PH of about 5-7 so not sure that it is a problem in this case, in normal storage conditions.
Citral, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalol – Naturally found in essential oils
*ingredients from organic farming
% Natural 98.46% % Organic 71.69%
Ingredients thoughts: So 18 Ingredients. 6 of which I did not have to look up to write this article. 12 which I had to look up even if it was just to spell it! Quite a few foaming ingredients. 3 key organic ingredients. Quite a few naturally derived ingredients but as I said I think shampoo is hard to make without it.
I could not see anywhere on the Evolve Organic Beauty website or the shampoo packaging that the product or the brand had any accreditations or certified badges attached to their name, but as they are such a large brand I would presume that they are working towards these.
Packaging – Recycled PET (polyethylene terephthalate) Plastic, which is fully recyclable and if it is put into landfill according to Evolve it will degrade without leaching any chemicals into the soil? I cannot find any information to back this up and have punted this back to Evolve to answer, which they have not. As far as I am aware plastic does not degrade for hundreds of years and should not be put into Landfill. My current Evolve shampoo states that it has 75% recycled plastic materials in it, which is great but I am not a huge fan of recycling plastic into more plastic bottles as to me you are just prolonging the problem of disposal.
What I like: The effect on my hair was fabulous, the scent, shine, texture, and manageability was all great.
What I did not like: The plastic bottle, recycled or not. The amount of naturally derived ingredients. The effect it had on my scalp and skin. The lack of brand accreditations, it always makes me uncomfortable when a brand has “Organic” in the brand title with no accreditation to back this up, though you will note the actual shampoo is not called Organic.
In conclusion, Evolve Superfood Shine Shampoo* is obviously good and well loved by all if you take into account all the great reviews it has on the brand website, people love it.
Just not me.
I think if you are new to organic haircare, either coming from supermarket or salon shampoos and you try this, yes you are going to love it, as yes it has less worrying ingredients in than what you are used to and it works really well. So for that yes, I would recommend trying it, as hands down it probably beats anything you are currently using.
Delve a bit deeper and move on your natural hair care journey and you will find shampoo’s out there with more key ingredients but not such a good effect on your hair.
The trick is to find both, and I am afraid I am still looking.
Evolve Organic Beauty Superfood Shine Shampoo is £12.00 for 250ml and can be found at Content Beauty* Price will increase to £13 shortly.
*This shampoo was paid for by myself and as always I have written an honest review.